Cloisonné is the original method of producing pins that was developed centuries ago and refined by Chinese artisans. Since this process involves hand-pouring each individual color into recesses that are completely surrounded by a thin metal border, it derives its name from the French verb “cloisonner”; which means to partition or to compartmentalize.  These metal borders are of major importance in that they not only create and outline the design (similar to the lines in a coloring book), but they also are what allow each color to retain its shape and keep from bleeding into the next…each color is in a separate compartment or “cloison”, each cloison is completely surrounded and separated by a thin border.

All the colors in genuine cloisonné are made from a mineral ore mixture ground into a powdered-glass resin that once fired and cooled; create a ceramic-likened glaze that becomes exceedingly hard and scratch resistant.  Because of this, experts say that cloisonné lapel pins can be preserved for hundred of years. 

While the use of natural materials does create a semi-smooth and exceptionally durable finish, with cloisonné pins, innately occurring impurities in the resin may cause slight porous surface imperfections.  These imperfections are to be expected and should in no way be considered flaws.

The amount of different colors available is limited to approximately 120 due to the fact that unlike synthetics or soft enamel that can be mixed to obtain different shades, each natural color in the glass-like material returns to its original shade after heating. Because of this, PMS color matching is not possible.  The AOKI Color Chart is the premier choice for picking cloisonné colors.

Due to the cloisonné process being perfected over thousands of years, cloisonné lapel pins have rightfully become the benchmark by which all other lapel pins are measured.  However, due to the high costs associated with producing genuine cloisonné along with this limited color palette, less expensive variations with larger coloring options have emerged.  As with many great art forms, few of the fundamental techniques have changed, however, modern-day coloring materials are now being used.

Since many manufacturers technically use “cloisonné” as a manufacturing term designating items comprised of compartments with metal borders, they also refer to these newer versions as being “cloisonné”.  For this reason, the name cloisonné is often used inaccurately today when referring to these “imitation” or “synthetic cloisonné" pins which are also known as “new cloisonné”, “semi-cloisonné”, “soft cloisonné”, “poly cloisonné”, “cloisonné II”, “cloisonné plus”, “clois-tech”, “hard enamel” and “Epola”.  A true cloisonné pin is a combination of the process and materials used.  These pins may be produced by a similar process, but the material used for coloring is not the powdered mineral ore mixture used in authentic cloisonné.

The Making of Cloisonné Pins Today:

Cloisonné pins start with the same basic steps as die struck lapel pins or soft enamel lapel pins

Molding

Design stamping:
After the pin’s design artwork is chosen, a die is created.  With computer-aided machinery, a reverse-image of the exact design is carved into a cylindrical piece of steel.  The steel die is then put through a hardening process in order for it to be able to withstand the repetitive impact of the stamping process.  This die will be used to imprint the raised outlines of each individual pin’s design into strips of softer sheet metal which is usually copper, bronze, or brass that will serve as the pin’s base. The use of such softer metals for the base results in a more detailed impression.  The raised outlines create the pin’s design elements while also creating the metal borders discussed above.  The recessed areas they frame become the “cloisons” that will receive the powdered resin where coloring is to be applied. 

Sandblasting (Optional)
Recessed areas that will not receive color may be optionally sandblasted to help supply a better contrast with the raised polished areas.

Backstamping:
If the pin is to have a backstamp, it is stamped in similar fashion on the reverse side at this time.

Cut-out Stamping:
If the design incorporates a center hole or cut-out, an additional cut-through die must be used at this time to “punch” out the hole.

Outline Cutting (Trimming):
Then a cutting die in the exact shape of the design’s outside edge is used to cut off the excess metal along the outer perimeter of the design—much like a cookie cutter.

Coloring & Firing
One color at a time, the recessed areas to be colored are then hand-filled with the ground glass.  When heated at high temperatures, the powdered glass melts and fills the cloison.  So after each color is applied, the pin is either fired in a kiln or with a fire gun at temperatures of 1400F to 1600F for two to four minutes and then allowed to cool off and stabilize at normal temperature before the next color is applied.  This process of applying and firing each color individually guarantees that the colors will not bleed into each other.  The firing of the glass mixture also ensures a hard and durable finish that can last for many years.

Stoning & Polishing
The pins are fully cooled after all the colors have been fired. Each pin is then hand ground on a carborundum wheel to remove any excess coloring until all the colors are flush with the metal lines that separate them.  The surface is then either hand polished or fired for a last time to bring back the surface’s smooth and lustrous appearance.

Attachment
The attachment, also know as the finding or post, is now soldered onto the back of each piece.

Plating
Electro-plating now can be processed. Gold, silver, and nickel are the most commonly used platings but several others are available including copper, chrome, brass, and pewter.  The pins are strung together with wire and tied to a plating tree. They are then dipped into the plating solution which coats the exposed metal parts. The length of time the pins are immersed dictates the quality and thickness of the plating.

Final Polishing (Optional)
Each piece is polished a final time with a softer polishing wheel in order to bring out the highest degree of luster and smoothness.

Additional Processes

Special Finishes
Double Plating, Antiquing, Blackening

Overprinting
If the design has small details or text that are too minute to be die stamped, the pin will require an additional process that will print the detail in ink on the surface of the pin.

Stones
Decorative stones can be attached to the pin.

Pin-on-Pin
This is a techinque of mounting a second pin in order to create a 3-dimensional effect, movement, or even to combine different pin techniques.

Inserts
Various inserts can be mounted to the pins including PVC and Lenticular (hologram).

Flashing Lights
Small battery-operated LED lights can be installed onto the pin.